Writing Sample
This article appeared in the
Spring 2004 issue of The Ocean Conservancy's Blue Planet Quarterly
magazine.
Putting the Community
in Conservation
Chumbe Island Coral Park in the Indian Ocean is a tiny place - achieving
some big conservation, education, and community involvement successes.
Look closely at a map of the
Indian Ocean
, just off the east coast of
Tanzania
, and you’ll find
Zanzibar
- the archipelago of small islands and coral atolls just south of the Equator
whose name evokes exotic spices and tropical beaches. Chumbe, a small Zanzibari
island, is the site of a privately established and run marine protected area
(MPA), the Chumbe Island Coral Park (CHICOP).
In a region where increased population and tourism, pollution, sedimentation and
bleaching from global warming have taken their toll on many coral reefs, Chumbe
stands out as a tiny place where big things are happening in conservation,
education, and community involvement.
Protecting Marine and Terrestrial Species
Located about seven miles (a 45-minute motor boat ride)
west of Unguja, the main
island
of
Zanzibar
,
Chumbe
Island
hosts a broad range of important species.
Zanzibar
is home to the last remaining population of petite Ader’s duikers (Cephalophus
adersi), the world’s most threatened antelope, which have suffered from
habitat loss and illegal hunting. Estimated in 1999 to number as few as 500, a
small herd of Ader’s duiker was reintroduced to Chumbe in 1997 and 1999 to
help protect the species from extinction.
Chumbe is also home to the coconut crab (Birgus
latro), the largest living land crab. With a carapace of 17 inches across
and a weight of up to eight pounds (at full size), it is truly spectacular—and
somewhat intimidating. This behemoth of the crustacean world is threatened
throughout the rest of the
Indian Ocean
region.
In addition to harboring important terrestrial species,
Chumbe
Island
’s surrounding waters are also home to a wide array of marine life. The reef
sanctuary MPA is only a little less than a mile long and about 330 yards wide,
yet 90 percent of all known hard coral species that have been identified in East
Africa are found within this small area, as well as nearly 400 species of fish
and a number of invertebrates such as lobster, shrimp, sponges and giant clams.
Endangered sea turtles and humpback whales are seasonal visitors.
The reef is located upstream from major fishing areas around
Zanzibar
’s capital,
Stone
Town
, providing a protected breeding ground for species that eventually disperse
into more degraded surrounding areas, helping to bolster regional fisheries (the
MPA is a no-take zone and only allows diving for research purposes).
In 1994, the government of
Zanzibar
declared Chumbe’s west coast reef a sanctuary and the coral rag forest on the
island a protected “closed forest.” This was largely the result of dogged
campaigning by German conservationist Sibylle Riedmiller. The payoff has been
significant: her foresight, substantial private investment, and years of work
have helped conserve an area that is biologically rich, involves the community,
hosts international marine researchers, and is a model of sustainable
eco-tourism.
An innovative project, CHICOP funds its conservation and education efforts
through a small eco-tourism program (see sidebar). Its staff believes
that CHICOP is the only privately managed marine reserve in the world; it
receives no financial support for management from the Tanzanian government (
Zanzibar
is an autonomous part of the United Republic of Tanzania) and pays taxes like
other tourism operations. The government owns the land (CHICOP leases the small
area with the tourist facilities) and oversees the park’s operations. Legal
documents establish the marine reserve and the closed forest, and agreements
between the government and CHICOP detail the latter’s responsibilities to
maintain suitable management (no extraction), minimize environmental stress, and
prioritize the hiring of locals.
The Chumbe reef sanctuary is registered as an MPA by the World
Conservation Monitoring Centre (established by United Nations Environment
Programme, World Wide Fund for Nature, and IUCN—The World Conservation Union)
in
Cambridge
,
England
. It is also on the UN List of Protected Areas.
Threats to the Environment
This haven is vital to the marine environment, especially
when one considers the degradation of coral reefs and depletion of fisheries in
the region. The 1997-98 El Niño, for
example, caused severe damage, although the Institute for Marine Sciences (IMS)
in
Zanzibar
reports that the inner channel between
Zanzibar
and
Tanzania
(where Chumbe is located) experienced
significantly lower mortality rates than surrounding areas.
It’s not just El Niño
that damages the reef.
“It’s speculation at this point, but we believe it’s likely that
increasing sedimentation from regular ferries and other vessels
passing Chumbe is causing gradual degradation in the form of sediment dumping
and nutrient enrichment,” says Carol Daniels, CHICOP’s conservation
coordinator, referring to the problem created when boats' hydraulic engine
systems churn up the seabed when traveling in shallow water, kicking up sediment
that settles on top of the coral and smothers it. “We
liaise regularly with the Zanzibar Ports Corporation to request that ferries
pass Chumbe at a reasonable distance from the reef.”
“Our
management plan recommends that larger vessels keep one nautical mile from the
reef’s outside edge, but this isn’t legislated,” she explains. “On the
whole, this is respected, with just the occasional problem from individual
pilots.”
The region’s population increase over the past 20 years has also
begun to take its toll on
Indian Ocean
coral reefs. Trying to keep up with the increasing need for food, fishermen
sometimes resort to destructive methods such as dynamite fishing, Kojani fishing
(breaking the coral with sticks to chase fish into encircling nets) or seine
fishing (pulling a net across the reef).
In spite of education programs reaching out to locals, poaching attempts
continue within CHICOP, albeit at rates lower than those 10 years ago – and
most are stopped as soon as rangers see the fishermen. In late 2002 there were
fewer than five attempted poaching incidents per month within the reserve.
“It’s sometimes challenging,” admits head ranger Omari Nyange.
“It’s a matter of educating the fishermen, because many don’t believe the
coral is alive and so they don’t believe they’re hurting it.” The rangers
speak directly with any fishermen found within the reserve, and they visit
villages to speak to the chief and elders in cases of repeat offenders and for
general awareness education.
In spite of the challenges, Nyange sees progress in their efforts to
convince locals to respect the reef sanctuary. “Fishermen have caught large
fishes many miles downstream that were tagged as juveniles as part of a research
project here,” he says, “so they can see the benefit of the protected
area.”
Focus on the Community
Small fishing villages dot
Zanzibar
’s coastlines. The people – 95 percent of whom are Muslim – have a strong
connection with the natural environment. Charcoal, palm leaves, tea, and the
famous spices are just some of the natural resources Zanzibaris use on a daily
basis. Fish is the main source of protein for most people.
According to the CHICOP philosophy, respecting local culture and the environment
is paramount. All activities aim to minimize impact, build environmental
awareness, provide financial benefits and empowerment for locals, and respect
local culture.
That is accomplished in part by hiring and educating locals. Many have had
little formal education, so CHICOP provides training for new staff. “We hire
men and women from the local communities for all positions, including cooks,
cleaners, waiters, maintenance workers, rangers, teachers, and
administrators,” explains Sadik Magwiza, lodge manager. “And our educational
programs target local school children and their teachers.”
The fishermen-turned-rangers patrol and manage the MPA and are also the
front-line educators for the students who come on day excursions. “These trips
are a great opportunity to teach the children about the marine environment,
which they know very little about,” says Khamis Khalfan Juma, a ranger and the
island’s education coordinator. “It’s very satisfying.”
Education as a Conservation Tool
The education of local school children – and their
teachers – is a tenet of Chumbe’s founding philosophy. “Education
throughout
Tanzania
is heavy on rote memorization with little, if any, hands-on training,”
explains Lisa Baum, CHICOP’s education coordinator. “The fact that
Zanzibar
is a coral-based island hasn’t yet inspired the inclusion of coral reef
ecology in school curriculum. So our hands-on programs are unique not only in
Zanzibar
, but throughout
Tanzania
.”
CHICOP has organized day excursions for local students at no charge since
1996. The island’s eco-tourism income, with some additional support from local
and international non-governmental organizations such as the Washington,
D.C.-based National Fish and Wildlife Foundation, pays for the program. In 2003,
more than 700 students visited the island and coral reef.
The children’s day on the island is a full one. After an introductory
talk on coral and a visit to one of the eco-bungalows to learn about its
environmental design, they take a guided walk in the intertidal zone or the
forest. A snorkeling expedition teaches
them about coral and fish species.
Despite having grown up on
an island, many of the children have never snorkeled (or even swum) before, so
instructors provide training in the shallow water first. Students who aren’t
comfortable venturing into deeper water can use a clear plastic box to view the
underwater life from the boat or while standing in the shallow water.
“The
children leave the island with lots of enthusiasm and often sing songs about how
much they love Chumbe,” says Baum. “From worksheets they complete at the end
of the day we can see that they have a good understanding of the topics
covered.”
The
teachers appreciate the opportunity, too. “We are so glad our students were
invited to learn about the environment and conservation, especially coral
reefs,” says Mboraka Makungu of
Chukwani
School
. “We
think that now we’ll all be able to educate people who live near Chumbe about
the benefits of the environment surrounding this island.”
In
2001 CHICOP began a teacher training program, focusing on marine-related content
and field-based learning. “Teachers weren’t preparing students for the
excursions or conducting follow-up education,” says Baum. “They hadn’t had
training in marine biology or coral reef ecology themselves, so they weren’t
comfortable with the material. The teacher training modules help address
that.”
The main teacher training school on Unguja is beginning to
incorporate classes on Chumbe for all trainee teachers. And CHICOP’s
“Introductory Teachers Pack – The Coral Reef Module” has been accepted by
the Ministry of Education to be incorporated as part of the current school
curriculum.
Benefits Beyond Its Borders
Head ranger Nyange is a quiet man, but ask him why the
Chumbe program is important and he enthusiastically rattles off a string of
reasons, with education of the local people topping his list. “Because I was a
fisherman, I understand the damage fishing can cause,” he says. “Education
is the only way to protect the environment. Why will people bother to protect
the coral reef if they don’t understand why it’s important?”
Nyange points out that a healthy reef benefits the local community in many
ways – protecting the shore from coastal erosion, offering shelter and
breeding grounds for many fish species and providing a source of both food and
tourism income. The education programs targeting children, teachers, local
fishermen and villagers are helping people understand how important the coral
reef is to them on these many different levels.
The benefits of a healthy reef
reach far beyond the local community. “This reef has been protected since
1992, and you can see the effects,” says Daniels. “Various
reports by IMS imply that in comparison to other non-protected areas around
Zanzibar
and
further afield, the diversity and populations are greater on Chumbe.”
The staff at CHICOP make an effort to ‘share the wealth,’
spreading the word about the island’s successful combination of eco-tourism,
marine conservation, and community education. “Delegations from the Ministries
of Agriculture, Environment and Tourism have come to participate in our student
education days,” says Magwiza. Rangers sometimes work directly with the
Fisheries Department on educational outreach to local villages, and CHICOP
founder Riedmiller speaks at several international conferences each year.
The more who hear about this successful endeavor, the better. Chumbe
provides an example to people and governments around the world who want to take
care of their natural resources and
local communities at the same time.
For more information on Chumbe’s
coral reef reserve or travel opportunities, visit www.chumbeisland.com.
-Jenny Carless is a regular contributor to Blue Planet Quarterly.
Eco-Tourism Supports Chumbe Activities [Sidebar]
More than a reserve and education center, CHICOP is also a
travel destination. Visitors (only 14 at a time) to the island’s seven
environmentally designed eco-bungalows support staff salaries and the park’s
educational, research and conservation projects.
Guests enjoy snorkeling, walks in the coral rag forest,
sumptuous meals, and lots of R&R in the charming palm-thatched bungalows.
Chumbe has received international acclaim for its sustainable management of
eco-tourism. Constructed entirely of local materials – and built largely by
local tradesmen – the bungalows are marvels of environmental design.
Each catches, filters and solar-heats its own water (the island has no
fresh water source). Captured rainwater is cleaned by a gravel and sand filter,
stored in a cistern and hand-pumped through a solar-powered heating system. Gray
water (from washing and bathing) is channeled into clay-encased plant beds of
species like banana and pawpaw trees that take up nutrients efficiently, so only
clean water runs out into the natural environment. Compost toilets rapidly
decompose human waste into natural fertilizer through aerobic decomposition. As
no flush water is added, sewage is completely avoided.
Photovoltaic solar electricity provides power for the bungalows’ lights.
To avoid disturbing nocturnal species such as the coconut crab, pathways
aren’t illuminated; instead, solar flashlights guide guests to the dining area
and back each evening.
Worldwide Community Involvement
[Sidebar]
“We talk a lot about putting marine protected areas
(MPAs) in the right place and using the right science – and those are
important,” says Dr. Cheri Recchia, The Ocean Conservancy’s director of
ecosystems protection. “But really it’s the local users and the adjacent
communities who make or break an MPA.”
The nature of that community involvement varies greatly – from “top
down” models imposed by government to those established by local communities,
sometimes without government recognition. Examples include:
